Note: Since I am not the curator of the Electrical fraternity but just another peanut wanting to bring a message of safety across, let’s share some more info so better informed choices will be made.
First and foremost question that makes the deal either easy or complicated is:
Is this replacing an existing circuit breaker or not.
If yes the deal is done…same make, same model number…cool.
If no, then you say “call an electrician, then you can order it and we might even deliver”.
But Mr. C(ustomer) insist…”I know what I am doing…even these electricians just know that in the DB at home is a 4.5kA or 6kA circuit breaker, its always like that, standard.
Ok, the kA already impresses because normally we start at the current rating 10Amps for lights, 20Amps for plugs/sockets, 40Amps for the stove, 20Amps for the geyser…so let’s throw a curveball. (for those in countries with different values, please submit the values here for the sake of reference…you know, just to help out the sales guys.)
Sir, what voltage shall it be rated at? Silence.
“What voltage have you got” he/she will ask…
“Well, there is 415V, 690V, 230V and even 1000V and so forth”.
There is the perception that the voltage is irrelevant because it will be the standard in your country/state or whatever the truth is it’s not. Always confirm if the working voltage.
We are not done yet.
Did you know that there are different circuit breakers for different load applications?
The short story goes: You have to:-
Know the type of load it will protect.
Know the kA rating -if not known…the higher the better – unless used in a series/cascaded system.
Know the operating voltage of the system.
Know the current rating to protect that particular circuit.
There you are done with the very basics!
**If this customer is busy with a new project – I strongly suggest a competent electrician get involved.
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